Thin stone and brick veneers are popular for adding a rich look without the weight of full masonry. But a thin veneer can become a big headache if the construction drawings lack crucial details. Over the years I’ve learning that thorough, clear drawings are the best way to avoid miscommunication and costly mistakes. In this post, I’ll share the key things I always specify in my drawings for thin veneer installations, so you can avoid common missteps on your projects.
Substrate & Preparation
Always start with a proper substrate. Thin veneer should never be applied directly to bare plywood or OSB (oriented strand board) – that’s asking for failure. For wood-framed walls, specify cement backer board over the studs (or metal lath and a scratch coat over the sheathing), and call for corrosion-resistant fasteners into the studs. This provides a stable, moisture-resistant base for the veneer. Including these notes in the drawing ensures the contractor won’t try to stick masonry onto an unsuitable surface.
Waterproofing & Moisture Barrier
Water is the enemy of exterior veneers, so show how to keep it out (and let it escape). Always include key waterproofing details: two layers of a quality water-resistive barrier (WRB) over the sheathing, a week screed (vented base flashing) at the bottom of the wall for drainage, and flashings at all openings and transitions. These elements ensure any water behind the veneer can safely drain out. If they’re omitted from the drawings, a busy installer might skip them. This can lead to trapped moisture problems or even project failure down the road.
Mortar and Adhesive
Specify the setting material clearly. Thin veneers need a high-strength bond, so call for a polymer-modified veneer mortar or adhesive (not a basic Type N or S mix). If you don’t, the installer might grab whatever is handy, risking a weak bond. For example, sticking veneer to cement board or concrete requires a special thin set designed for that purpose – using the right mortar will keep pieces from loosening later.
Expansion/Control Joints
To prevent cracking, include expansion or control joints in your drawings. Large stretches of veneer should be broken up to accommodate movement. I typically indicate sealant joints at building expansion breaks and at intervals of around 12-18 feet along long walls. If you don’t show these, the mason may omit them, and the veneer could develop cracks over time.
Flashing and Transitions
Detail how the veneer meets other materials and terminates. Show flashings or drip caps at the top of veneer sections where they meet different cladding (for example, at the top of a stone wainscot against siding). Also, indicate how the veneer stops at edges or openings. I often draw a trim piece or sealant joint where the veneer ends at a door or window frame. These details ensure a neat, watertight finish and clarify who is responsible for each element. Without clear transition details, you could end up with awkward gaps or leaks because each trade assumed someone else would handle it.
Corners and Edges
Be specific about outside corners and other exposed edges. If the product has L-shaped corner pieces, note that they should be used. Otherwise, detail how to wrap the veneer around the corner (overlapping pieces for a natural look) to avoid a visible seam. Likewise, show how any exposed top or edge of the veneer is finished – whether with a return piece, a metal edge trim, or another method – so the installer doesn’t have to guess. Without guidance, installers might improvise in ways that look bad or aren’t durable, so a simple corner detail on the drawings goes a long way.
Interior Thin Veneer Considerations
Interior veneers aren’t exposed to rain, but you should still specify important details. Use a sturdy backing (e.g. cement board on studs) instead of plain drywall if the veneer is heavy – this prevents failures under the weight. In wet areas like a shower accent wall or kitchen backsplash, include a waterproof membrane or backer board behind the veneer. Also specify the proper adhesive or setting bed (often called a tile-style thinset) so the installer doesn’t use the wrong product. Finally, plan for the finishing touches. Show how the veneer wraps a corner or fireplace opening. Note that any outlets or switches on that may wall may need extensions boxes so their faceplates end up flush with the new veneer surface. These small drawing details make sure your interior veneer looks clean and stays trouble-free.
Conclusion
Thorough drawings and specifications are the key to avoiding missteps with thin veneer installations. By clearly detailing everything – substrate prep, moisture barriers, fasteners, mortar, flashings, joints, corners, and more – you ensure the contractors know exactly what’s required. In short, sweat the details on paper so you won’t be sweating them on site. When nothing is left to assumption, your thin veneer project will look great, stay dry, and stand the test of time.
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About the Author
Written in the voice of Braen Supply’s in-house expert persona, Gabriel Shaw. Shaw embodies the collective knowledge of our team and shares practical, straightforward tips to help landscape professionals make the most of their landscaping and masonry projects – drawing on decades of experiences serving New Jersey and the tri-state area.
